Probably the 'Hottest' You Tube video ever posted



For those of you that enjoyed our Original Recipe (Naga Snakebite Extreme) and our even hotter 'Private Reserve' chilli sauces we bring you some good news, the ultimate Naga Morich based chilli sauces are now available here.
A NEW NAGA SNAKEBITE 'PRIVATE RESERVE IS ALSO AVAILABLE HERE'
I seriously over stepped the line yesterday. It’s my birthday soon and I love cooking, particularly with some of the hot pepper varieties so I thought I would buy myself a new food processor. I had around 100 Naga Morich peppers left over from the initial batch of Naga Snakebite sauces and thought I would test out the blender by making a concentrated Naga Morich paste.
I battled on the complete my main objective - make a Naga Morich concentrate using my new food processor adding just a little Cider Vinegar (to bring the Acidity/PH below 4.5 to prevent botulism) and a spoon full of sugar and 10% sea salt to aid fermentation and preservation. The fumes from this concoction were unbelievable and it was quite a struggle pouring the blended mixture into a glass sealed ramekin jar. However it wasn’t the fumes that got me, by this point the pain in my hands had reached such a crescendo that they were physical shaking.
Labels: Capsaicin, chilli peppers, Naga Snakebite Sauce
In 2005/06 www.thechileman.org increased the availability of this pepper to the chilli community, using our Bangladeshi contacts to distribute authentic seeds to anyone brave enough to grow these firebombs.Labels: hot chilli sauce
After surveying the bewildering range of mouse annihilating products in store, I opted for two poison filled plastic bait boxes rather than the conventional decapitating mouse traps. The bait boxes contain a slimly looking green mixture which the instructions promise will unleash a quick and relatively painless death to any of my hungry furry friends. I hope death is quick as the last thing I want to do is to finish off a half dead mouse writhing around in agony – even if it was the critter that ate my 7 pod plant.
Well its two weeks since i planted the first batch on this years seeds, one tray of mainly Annuums (Purple Prince, Masquarade, Fish etc) and another tray of Chinense, Pubescens and some wild species. As expected nearly all of the annum varieties germinated within the first 7 days and after two weeks I have had nearly 100% germination. Indeed all 20 annuum varieties planted have germinated.
The only ones Im waiting on are chinense species Aji Chombo (0 out of 3), Potka Booni Morich (0 out or 6), Ivorian Pimente and Super Pube (PI 595622), a pubescens, although my 'Hyper Pube' and 'Ultra Pube' have germinated fine. Three wild species Capsicum Eximium, CGN19198 (Capsicum Sp) and Capscum Lanceolatum have yet to rear their heads also. Not only are seeds of the wild species very difficult to get hold off, in my experience they tend to be very difficult to germinate. In previous years some have taken up to 6 weeks to germinate. I like a challenge!

With the weather getting a little warmer, I thought I would transfer my plant to the chile house. Two days later this is the result- absolute carnage. Not only have these slimey little bastards devoured every single leave, they have even chewed half the stem. A 8 inches plant devoured to a paulty 2in stub in one night. Ive got the salt and scissors at the ready and the season first slug hunt is imminent!!
Its Saturday the 10th of March. After a cold, dark and depressing winter the mornings are starting to get a little lighter (and the nights a little longer), the weather getting warmer and the daffodills are starting to open in my garden. The crisp early morning sun is beating down and the birds are singing my favourite Lilac tree. If you listen really carefully, you can even here the sound of chilli seeds been dropped into seed trays - yes its that time of year again, chile growing season. Wipeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!!!
However when natural light levels still pretty low and the risk of a sharp frost still present up until May or so (bad news for young tender plants), up here in Darlington I usually leave it a few more weeks. Anyway with milder autuums becoming more of the norm, even up here in the North of England, the chilli growing season extends right through to October/November so theres plenty of time to get those seeds in the soil if you havent done do already. In previous years, ive planted some of the shorter season varieties like Cayenne and Jalapeno as late as June and still had pods ready in time for my homemade chilli con carnes.
If youve never grown chillis before don't despair. Despite their 'exotic' appearence, chilli peppers are actually from the same horticultural family as the humble tomato & potato and are an absolute doddle to grow. Luckily unlike the boring potato, they are thousands of highly ornamental and tasty varieties to grow. They come in all sorts of shapes and sizes and they come in every colour imaginable, except bright blue! They grow quite happily in plant pots or window containers so you don't need an allotment. You don't even need a garden or a greenhouse or even soil! (see hydroponics). All chilli plants require is a warm spot, well drained soil, the occasional light sprinkling of fertiliser and a little loving care.
Labels: chilli peppers
Contrary to popular belief Chile pepper plants are perennials and can grow for many years if over wintered successfully. Unfortunately over wintering your precious plants can prove to be a very fickle & frustrating affair.
Ive tasted some fantastic hot chilli based pickles, oils and sauces in my time but recently I stumbled across a new range of products sold by a Brighton Food Company - Chillipepperpete.Im not normally one for writing sauce reviews but after purchasing a number of his sauces, I just had to tell you more about two of them inparticular.
The first ones called 'Nagabih Tarkari' which claims to be 'the worlds hottest curry sauce'. Ive eaten more Naga Morich & Bih Jolokia chillis (the worlds hottest chillis) than you can shake a stick at and this is the first Bih Jolokia based sauce I have come across, which is what initially caught my attention.
The 'active ingredient' is the Bih Jolokia chilli from Assam India with a infusion of tomotoes, carrots, courgettes, peas, pumpkin and even cabbage thrown in for good measure. With this blend of vegetables I must say I was a bit sceptical but boy was I wrong. This is one of best sauces Ive ever taste - it an absolute dream and even gives Katos Island Sauce a run for its money. Despite being spicy, rather than blow your head off, the intense flavour just overwhelms your taste buds. I particularly like the seet pumpkin undertones (mental note: I must use Pumpkins in my next batch of homemade sauce). Add a couple of tablespoons of this sauce to any bland ready meal supermarket curry and even they can be transformed into something special.
The second one is called 'Dragons Blood' another Bih Jolokia based sauce which almost glows in the bottle. More runny then Naga Tarkari, you just need to look at its ruby red colour and you know this is a serious bad boy. My only complaint with this one is that its just too hot! I dabbed just a pea sized dollop on my finger and I though my tongue was going to explode. I spent the the next half an hour swilling milk around my mouth whilst tending to my streaming nose. I think the tame picture of the dragon needs to be replaced with a toxic chemical symbol. A bottle of this size should last even the most sadasitic chilli head an age. If you like eating raw Naga Morich or Bih Jolokia pods for a laugh, this sauce is a must!
You can find more details of Chillipepperpete's products here:
http://www.chillipepperpete.com/index.php
PS I will not be held responsible for any damage you do to yourself!
The Naga Morich, or 'Dorset Naga', Bhut Jolokia & Bih Jolokia have all recently been tested at more than 1 million Scoville Heat Units . These are the hottest peppers on the planet!
The Naga Morich Pepper has become synomous with thechileman site after we questioned whether the Red Savina Habanero really was the worlds hottest pepper as claimed in the Guinness Book of World Records.




Well Ive seen it all now. After the hottest July (in UK) for over 200 years; August, at least here in the North east of England has been an absolute disaster. Ive never seen so much rain in a single month and its supposed to be the height of summer!!! About half a hour ago I was sitting in the garden enjoying a rare bit of August sun when all of a sudden all hell broke loose - Hail stones so large I though the windows were going to go through.
Two of the varieties which have attracted lots of attention this year are the fearsomely hot Naga Morich and possible the worlds longest pepper, the Whippets Tail.

Although there are literally 1000’s of recipes, here are a few simple ones to get you going:
A Hot Sauce Recipe (makes about 3 medium sized bottles) 
- 1 onion (diced)
- 2 large carrots (diced)
- 2 Tomatoes (roughly chopped)
- 3 cloves or garlic (minced)
- 1 lime (or Orange/Mango/Grapefruit) - juiced
- 1 tablespoon of Virgin Olive Oil
- 1/2 cup of distilled vinegar (or white/cider vinegar not malt vinegar)
- A pinch of Cumin
- A large pinch of Salt
- Chopped Chiles to taste*
* The pungency of your Chiles will determine how hot your sauce is (check out the chileman database first). For a really hot sauce use Habenero’s, Scottch Bonnets or even Naga Morich -if your feeling really brave
Enjoy























Whilst surfing chile forums you may have seen pictures of exotic sounding varieties with secret code numbers rather than common names.
PI 281353, PI 315008, PI 315028, GRIF 9165 and CAP 501 are amongst the many varieties I’m growing this year and your probably wondering what the hell are these!
Believe it or not there are several government institutions and seed banks around the world committed to collecting, documenting and preserving chile seed stocks. Although there is little danger of the humble habenero going extinct, many chile varieties are so rare they are in danger of being lost forever and these institutions play an invaluable role in ensuring diversity is maintained. Each institution use their own mnemonics and numbering systems rather than common names to help them reference varieties. Many are so rare that they don’t have a common name. Amongst chile enthusiasts, they are often referred to as ‘Research or Government peppers’.
The United States Department of Agriculture’s Plant Introduction (PI) system is probably the best known. The USDA hunts out and receives seed from all over the world and stores one of the worlds most extensive Chile seed collections them at its facility in Georgia. Observation data (which includes everything from the seed source to the size and shape of the parent plant and pods) is recorded upon arrival to the facility and a Plant Introduction number (PI ######) is then assigned. There are over 2000 PI varieties documented (some of which also have common names) and you can find them all listed in the chileman database.











My Manzano plant is probably the favourite of the 70 odd varieties I’m growing out this year. I purchased a small plant from the 2005 Chilli Fiesta and successfully over wintered the plant in the back bedroom. After a slow start to the growing season, it has been storming ahead in recent weeks and after producing nearly 100 stunning purple flowers in early June, small apple like pods have started to appear. They look fab!!!




After sowing seeds in March, my chile plants usually start flowering in June/July. A flowering plant normally means that tasty pods are only a few months away. One area which can cause alarm to new chile growers is 'blossom or flower drop'. Chile plants produce many flowers prior to fruiting and it is common for some of them (even up to 60/70%) to fall off. If virtually all your flowers fall off without setting fruit, it will be due to one of more of the following problems :
1. Day time temperatures are too high (consistently above 95 oF)
2. Night time temperatures are too low (consistently below 60 oF)
3. Too much nitrogen fertilizer has been applied (check NPK ratio
of fertiliser)
4. Overwatering
5. Natural light levels are too low (reduces fertility).
6. Humidity is too low (also reduces fertility)
7. Air circulation is poor (good air circulation contributes to pollination).
8. There is a lack of pollinating insects.
After many months of what has seemed like continuous rain, overcast days and the dreaded slugs, my little babies now face another problem – too much sun!!
Several of my young plants in the chilehouse have suffered horrendous damage caused by the intense mid day sun. Curling and yellowing leaves are the most visible signs of sunscald and the more shade loving varieties like Rocoto and some of the wild species have been particularly badly affected.




Some common traits of wild species include their stunning flowers, very small (and hot) berry like pods and delicate foliage. Check out the chileman guide to chile species and the chileman database (using the species drop down) for more details. I can't wait to photograph the flowers and put the pods into my tummy!!
The mechanics of transplanting seedlings and ‘potting on’ young chile plants is always a hot topic on chile forums and a source of concern to new growers in particular. Although one false move can lead to disaster, the process is relatively simple and if you follow a couple of general rules you won’t go far wrong.All plants or more specifically their roots need sufficient room to grow strong and healthy. However transplanting seedlings too soon can cause transplant shock and ultimately bring death to your little darlings. Too late and growth can become stunted resulting in miniaturised or weak plants and ultimately less chile pods.
When to pot on seedlings:
Chile seedlings produce sets of leaves in pairs. The first set of leaves are called the seed leaves, the next set are the first true set of leaves. Once your seedlings have developed several sets of true leaves you will need to prick them out and transplant them into a larger pot to give them more room to grow.
I tend to ‘pot on’ seedlings when they have at least two sets of true leaves, any earlier and the root systems tend to be too fragile and seedlings can quickly die from root disturbance / transplant shock. When transplanting seedlings (and potting on plants) do so in the evening or on a cloudy day. This reduces the chance of the plant getting scalded by the sun and gives roots the chance to settle into their new environment rather than battling to suck up nutrients and water to maintain the plant during periods of intense heat.
How?
Carefully prick out your seedlings (using a dibber or an old plastic plant label) and try to retain as much of the soil around the roots as possible to minimise root disturbance. If you aren't disturbing the soil around the roots they have no reason to even know they have been replanted and therefore unlike to suffer from transplant shock! 
Always lift seedlings by their leaves, not their stems. Damaged leaves can be replaced; a damaged stem is normally terminal.
Fill the new pot completely with your soil mix (2 parts compost, 1 part vermiculite and 1 part perlite is a good mix) and then make a hole in the middle of the soil that's slightly bigger than the original root ball. Try not to compact the soil too much as this can inhibit root development. Chiles are from the same family as Tomatoes (the Solanaceae or Nightshade family) and like their genetic cousins they will make new roots, (although not to the same extent) along buried stems. So rather than disposing of leggy/spindly seedlings, try transplanting them deeper so that their stems are covered by the soil up to the base of the bottom cluster of leaves.
Lightly cover with soil and gently water them in. Don’t panic if seedlings wilt or leave curl up at this stage. This is quite common and providing the soil is not soaked and the roots damaged, they will recover in a few hours.
Do not be tempted to pot on seedlings and young plants into too big a pot too soon - another common source of premature chile death! I normally progress slowly through 4 pot sizes starting with small 9cm pots before moving up through 13cm, 20cm and finally onto 28cm (or 10 litre) pots for the larger varieties like Aji and Habanero.
Wait until the root system begins to show through the bottom of the pot before moving them into larger pots. Plants ripe for potting on often dry out quickly and show signs of wilting.
In general, the larger the final pot, the larger the final plant although local growing conditions, the soil medium and the variety transplanted will also influence the final plant size. When potting plants into their final pots, mix in a small amount of fish, blood and bone fertiliser in to the soil mix to encourage root development and vegetative growth.
Black Plastic or Terracotta Plant Pots?
Chile peppers love heat and growth (through warming of the soil) is greatly encouraged by using black plastic plant pots. Although they don’t look as nice as an aged terracotta pot, they are a hell of a lot cheaper to buy and also maintain soil moisture better during the long summer months. If you decide to use terracotta pots, covering the soil surface with a handful of gravel will help retain soil moisture. Sharp, angular gravel with a handful of crushed eggshells thrown in is also an excellent slug deterrent! 


I really hate these little bastards and the local ‘Darlington snails & slugs’ seem to be a particularly cunning, vicious and heartless breed. Despite have hundreds of tender and tasty varieties like Cayenne, Explosive Ember and Bolivian Rainbow to munch on (and I don’t mind loosing a few of them), they always single out the rarer varieties and the ones I’m most looking forward to growing & eating. The battle scene is a sorry tale of woe and amongst those felled with the expertise of a lumberjack are three Naga Morich plants, two Aji Omnicolor plants, two out of three Thai oranges and my only Capsicum Flexuosum.
I’m absolutely gutted and this is war!! If you’re having the same problems and want more information on how best to tackle these little sods (and other nasty critters), check out the Chilemans guide to pests & diseases.

Here in the UK where we have relatively long, cold & dark winters extending from late October and sometimes into April, over wintered plants need to be trimmed back in the Autumn and kept either in a heated greenhouse or brought indoors to give them the best chances of survival. As well as the plunging temperatures, I find that poor light levels can be a real problem. Some plants tend to shed most (if not all) of their leaves and your once bushy healthy specimens seem to turn into sticks almost overnight! Those plants that retain most of their leaves often get infested with greenfly and whitefly, which seem to come out of nowhere adding further to over wintering woes. To tackle the problem of leaf drop, some Chile growers use artificial lighting with great success. This is an area of research that will be high on my list of priorities later in the year after just witnessing the decimation in the Chile house!!
With a number of my seedlings now having several sets of true leaves, it will soon be time for potting on. I'll be reporting on this endeavour shortly. I've also been sent some more seeds from a couple of my very kind Chile friends. Although it's nearly May, I can't resist planting up one more trays of seedlings.
Despite the name of the most common Chile species annuum (meaning annual), Chile plants are in fact perennials and can grow happily for several years before they eventually lose their vigour if protected over the cold winter months. However 'over wintering' as its known can be a very fickle & challenging affair particularly in Northern climates where over the long winter months temperatures regularly fall below zero and light levels decrease.
There is a problem however. Not only are seeds almost impossible to come by (the Dorset growers won't part with them for obvious reasons) they are very tricky to germinate. Last year I achieved germination percentages of less than 30 per cent (and even those took six to seven weeks! This year my saved seed has proved a little more successful. 40 seeds were planted on the 12th March in a heated propagator, although it wasn't until the 17th April when I moved them to the Chile house that signs of life emerged when 9 seedlings suddenly appeared. More are starting to germinate on a regular basis and the running total stands at 24 even if they are still very small. I'm so proud!!
Germination went more as less as I expected with most of the five domesticated species (particularly the annuums) germinating in just over a week. Some of the more challenging chinense & wild species which normally require slightly higher soil temperatures and long germination times have taken a little longer although after 4 weeks I have at least 2 or 3 seedlings out of 6 seeds I planted for most varieties.
When seeds germinate, light becomes critical. As soon as the majority of my seeds germinated, I moved them off the electric blanket and onto nearby windowsills or into the Chile house. You will see just how light dependent seedlings are when you return from work and find all your little darlings on the kitchen windowsill frantically leaning towards the light outside. If you find your seedlings leaning too much or becoming tall and spindly, you know they are not getting enough light and you should move them to a brighter location. Don't worry if your seedlings are already tall and spindly. They can be rescued later by replanting up to the top set of leaves.
The temperatures outside here in Darlington, in the North East of England are still a little cold although the sun on occasions has proved quite intense during the day. The max/min thermometer in the Chile house has seen daytime temperatures ranging from as cold as -3oC to as high as 45oC within a 24-hour period.

Wild species - unlike the common varieties which are fairly easy to grow, many of the rare wild species are supposed to be hard to germinate. I like a challenge!! | Tasty peppers - after all chiles are grown to be eaten. I've got plenty of new recipes I want to try this year particularly blisteringly hot ones to feed to my mates who 'can handle anything' | Unusual Pods & Beautiful flowers - as well as being great to eat, some chile varieties are simply stunning and make great gifts and house plants. |
